When this happens, you are combining the spring and shock action of both front and rear suspension arms. This causes the suspension to become firmer, and it also causes the sled to compress both arms simultaneously, sort of squatting the sled level instead of allowing it to pitch, or rock.
For example, you want to limit how far the sled lifts the skis off the ground when you crack the throttle. You adjust the coupler blocks so the rear arm does not move as far back to hit the block. This indeed will reduce the ski lift, but also combines the spring and shock action of both arms earlier, resulting in a firmer suspension — once coupled.
Another example would be to improve the ride quality in choppy stutter bumps. An uncoupled rear arm is desirable in this condition, so you open up the gap between the rear arm and the coupler block so the rear arm has to move further back to hit the block.
This will improve the ride comfort, but will also increase the amount of ski lift. Want more articles and content like this? Subscribe to SnowTech Magazine and get all 5 issues delivered right to your door! Like our facebook page to keep up with us online. Your email address will not be published. Post comment. We are providing information ONLY. Some of these modifications may VOID your warranty and that is your responsibility to look into. The Totallyamaha users have passed along most of the information found on this site.
Make sure center shock spring preload is 5 to 10 mm. Typically, more preload to the center spring causes track spin, rear kick-up and a harsh ride. Remember, when you create load in the rear, the load is transferred to the front.
In some cases more torsion spring preload will reduce load to the skis by holding the rider higher in the travel and away from the coupler stops. Problem: Inside ski lifts when trying to accelerate out of a corner Possible solution: Make sure that your ride height is set correctly and you have good front to rear balance. In many cases we have found that increasing the rate of coupling, which reduces weight transfer, will transmit more load to the skis. One of the most common misunderstandings is the shock has failed, causing excessive sag.
Instead, check ride-height settings. Subscribe to Snow Goer now to receive issues delivered to your door 7 times per year for a low cost. Check you ski toe! I just adjusted mine. It was major toe out. And was all over the place. Ever sense new. Adjusted it and wow. I have a Polaris iq shift , i was wondering how to set up the shocks more for jumping.
Any ideas???? The sleds suspension doesnt really seem to have any spring. I sit on the sled, it sags. I get off the sled, it stays down. I lift up easily at the rear of the sled and it raises. I let, and it stays. Your email address will not be published.
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